Editor’s Note: Featuring the good, the bad, and the ugly, Look of the Week is a regular series dedicated to revealing the most talked about outfits of the past seven days.
CNN
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When Belgian designer Martin Margiela first introduced the split-toe tabi silhouette in 1988, he dipped the soles in red paint and covered the runway with white gauze. A split footprint ensured to leave an indelible mark. Margiela reportedly said after her second show in 1989, “This is for a small group of women and not everyone will like it. It’s important to do what you want.” Yes, and there will always be people who agree with that,” he said.
Part hoof and part human foot, these spooky boots, often sewn with soft leather that looks like a second skin, are inspired by the fifteenth Japanese worker’s shoe. It gained rave reviews, polarizing opinions for 35 years, and has long been considered one of fashion’s most disruptive items.
These days, the semiotics of the tabi (which now includes ballet flats, slingbacks, patent loafers, sneaker styles, etc.) have become even more tenuous. Once an abbreviation for sartorial anarchists and fashion history geeks, today shoes are no longer an inside secret.Instagram fan account @margielatab1 46,600 followers cataloging hundreds of versions of boots (including tattoos) boots only), and the hashtag #maisonmargielatabi has over 1.8 million views on TikTok.
Tavis reached a new level of mainstream popularity this week when Gen Z pop star Olivia Rodrigo wore black 30mm heel ballet pumps. In paparazzi photos taken on Monday, Rodrigo delicately navigates London’s cobbled streets in delicate shoes. It was a small step for the “Good 4 You” singer, but a giant leap for Maison Her Margiela’s cultural perception.
Rodrigo isn’t the only 20-something it girl recently spotted wearing split-toe flats. Last month, singer Dua Lipa was spotted wearing the label’s ballerina style. It features double leather straps, a braided sole, and a crevice-like shape. Zendaya in June I took a picture of her in her classic white tabi She then posted a selfie of the shoe to her 184 million followers on Instagram.
Fashion purists may protest against defilement of a cult item, but after more than 30 years on the shelves, these shoes certainly deserve audiences’ rediscovery. Has the pop star’s endorsement made Tabi lose its esoteric brilliance, or is it just more people joining in on the jokes?