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USA Today
YouTuber Emma Chamberlain, known for her unwavering influence on minimalist fashion in the mid-2010s, put a new spin on “business casual” at designer Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2024 Haute Couture show on June 26. Chamberlain took minimalism to a whole new level by embracing the new “no shirt” fashion trend alongside pop stars like Katy Perry.
Last Wednesday, Chamberlain showed off a classic look in straight-leg black pants and a stiff white button-down shirt, but upon closer inspection, it was clear she wasn’t even wearing a shirt; rather, it was attached to her body by two strings tied behind her back.
Perry also appeared on the red carpet at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture show in Paris in a bold look consisting of ripped black tights and a long fur coat.
Love it or hate it, young people are falling for this new trend. According to Carolyn Mair, cognitive psychologist, fashion business consultant, and author of The Psychology of Fashion, the body positivity movement, social media, and a growing rebellion against traditional fashion norms have sparked this shift toward “more liberal and inclusive standards of beauty.”
What is the “no shirt” trend?
The “no shirt” trend has evolved beyond the classic crop top or bra top to more revealing styles like Perry’s.
Chamberlain explained her look on Jean Paul Gaultier’s official TikTok page. To tell “It’s deconstructed and it’s a subversion of the most simple and classic silhouettes, and I couldn’t love anything more.”
Fashion historian and author Brian Centrone says the “topless” look reflected broader social and political issues around women’s rights, with exposing breasts in particular “always being taboo and forbidden”.
“One of the ways women can fight back against this is by showing they have control over their own bodies,” Centrone says. “It’s great that young women can stand up and say, ‘This is who I am. I own it.’ Fashion allows us to do that.”
Wasn’t this the time when pants were banned?
Yes, that’s right. At first it was young celebrities who were ditching their pants, but now going topless has replaced that trend.
“Fashion is just a representation of what’s going on broadly in the cultural world,” Christina Binkley, a longtime journalist who has covered business and culture, previously told USA Today. “We’re living in a time of breaking the rules.”
“In many of these cases, the exposure is no more than if the wearer were wearing a bathing suit,” Binkley said. “It seems a little shocking to us because we’re not used to seeing it, but it’s just a rule that someone somehow made up.”
Centrone says these bold trends aren’t going away anytime soon.
“I think women will always be moving in the direction of these trends that emphasize the sexual nature of their bodies and that they should have the same ownership over their bodies as men,” he says.
Like the no-panties era, the topless trend isn’t necessarily heralded by a “revealing look,” but rather by a clear shift that resonates with young people wanting to live unconventional lives.
“Embracing bold and unconventional trends highlights the psychological urge to stand out, to explore new aspects of identity and to communicate group belonging and personal values,” Mair says.
What is the “no pants” trend? Kylie Jenner, Hailey Bieber and other Gen Z stars spark the “no pants” fashion trend
Why are young people embracing this trend?
Young people are influenced by what they see in the media and on social networks, especially celebrities they look up to and perceive as important fashion influencers.
Adolescents are particularly susceptible to outside influences, and this tendency is “reinforced by constant exposure to these trends and the celebrities who endorse them,” Mair said.
According to Mair, this allows them to quickly adopt new trends and “stay relevant and accepted in the social sphere.”
Centrone said young people tend to gravitate towards bold trends as a way to cultivate their identity, especially when they feel like their voices aren’t being “heard, recognized or taken seriously.”
“People often say that fashion is ‘frivolous,’ but that’s not true,” Centrone says. “Fashion is fundamentally rooted in expressing yourself politically, socially and even religiously in society. Young people can use fashion as a vehicle, as their voice, which can sometimes be louder than their own voice.”
Mair says the rapid changes in fashion cycles have allowed young people to embrace more adventurous styles and highlight a cultural movement that prioritises celebrating individual identity and self-development.
“The novelty and boldness of these trends is also a source of excitement,” she adds, “as they offer a way to stand out and make a statement in today’s fast-changing, anything-goes social climate.”