Shortly after we published an article about Christian institutions in Jerusalem that offer spectacular views from their rooftops and belfries, we received a letter from a reader. “Great work,” she wrote. “But I forgot to mention the amazing view from Nebbi Samuel!”
Because when the first Crusaders to enter the Holy Land viewed Jerusalem from Nebi Samuel, the traditional tomb of the Biblical prophet, they were deeply moved. They were so in awe that they shed tears and thanked the Lord for allowing them to see such a glorious sight.
The Nebi Samuel complex, a little west of Jerusalem, certainly offers some beautiful views. But there are hundreds of actual observation decks dotted around the country, and they’re great, free sites that are often accessed by the Keren Keimet Ra’Israel Jewish National Fund (KKL-JNF).
Most of the observation decks are dedicated to fallen soldiers and victims of terrorist attacks. And many of them, like the observation decks described below, Masbilanim — The audio guide provides visitors with an excellent English explanation of the ruins, its history, and scenery.
Here are some amazing sights with English audio guides.
Markiya Observation Deck
In April 1948, one month before leaving Palestine, the British handed over a military post south of the Arab village of Malkiya to the local population. Fearing that Lebanese forces would enter Galilee from that very direction during the impending war of independence, Israel’s upstart military force, the Haganah, decided to preempt that attack and capture Malkiyya.
Israel made its first successful conquest on May 15, shortly after declaring the new state, but the Lebanese army quickly counterattacked. Israel suffered heavy losses and its soldiers were forced to retreat. Two weeks later, an Israeli force disguised as a supply convoy and moving without lights moved toward Malkiyah. At the same time, a second force launched a diversionary attack on an Arab village. Israeli forces surprised the Arabs and captured the village, but it was recaptured by Lebanese forces on June 6.
Malkiyah was eventually captured during Operation Hiram on October 30, 1948, in an unexpected Israeli attack from the south. In March 1949, a small number of demobilized soldiers established a settlement on the site of the empty village. The observation deck above the settlement features a large monument to fallen soldiers and offers stunning views of the Kadesh Valley, the Golan Heights, and Mount Hermon.
Mount Bental Volcanic Park
Shortly after Israel won the Six-Day War in 1967, the military built an observation deck atop the volcano Mount Bental. Over 1,160 meters (approximately 3,800 feet) high, this blissfully tranquil peak was occupied by humans for more than a decade before being abandoned. In the 1990s, members of nearby Kibbutz Merom Golan, with support from KKL-JNF, cleaned the bunker and prepared the site for visitors.
Youngsters can climb the ditch, and parents can get a glimpse of stunning views deep into Syria, Lebanon, and all of northern Israel. The scenery also includes views of Merom Golan, the first kibbutz established on the Golan Heights after the Six-Day War.
Merom Golan originally lived in the central Golan Heights, but after a few months he moved to the deserted Syrian town of Quneitra, and finally in 1972 to a permanent home inside the volcanic crater of Mount Bentar. Initially, kibbutzim were carved out of tuff (volcanic rock), kept livestock, and grew apples. But recently they have expanded their farming operations, including but not limited to truffles, which are dug and harvested by specially trained dogs. Tourists have not been forgotten either, with the kibbutz operating a beautiful resort village and the famous Bokrim (cowboy) meat restaurant.
Shamir Observatory
Eran Shamir could have been any bright, earnest Israeli teenager with a passion for his country. During his year-long pre-military stint as a guide at the Israel Conservation Society Field School in the Golan Heights, he showed an affinity for all the rocks, flowers, trees, and animals of the Holy Land. He memorized the entire Bible. He filled the audience with pride as he spoke about the 2,000 years of fighting in the Golan Heights, from Gamla to the Yom Kippur War. We were among them on a family trip in 1993. After getting to know Elan, it was no surprise to learn that he volunteered for the Israeli army’s paratroopers, served in the special forces, and became an officer.
Elan was tragically killed in Lebanon on May 15, 1997. A magnificent monument to Elan and his father, Dubi, who died just 20 years before his son, stands along the Jewish National Fund’s Gilboa Scenic Route (Road 667), in the Beit Sheen Valley.
Chapter Eran Shamir is also remembered for his ascent of Eran in the Golan settlement of Keshet. The views from uphill and at the top are outstanding.
Gila Observation Deck
On April 18, 2012, Lieutenant Gila Besarelli was crushed to death by a steel lighting device. It happened during preparations for the annual Independence Day ceremony. She lies in her final rest just a few hundred meters (yards) from where the catastrophe occurred.
Born and raised in the town of Mevaseret in the hills of Jerusalem, Bezalelli was always smiling and curious, volunteering with food distribution organizations and starting a summer camp for children from poor families. She was a very generous young woman. Within the framework of the Young Maccabees organization, she was sent to India to teach first aid. Her passion for saving lives also led her to volunteer with Magen David Adom (Israel’s field emergency service) from the age of 14. The list of Bezalelli’s contributions to Israeli society is endless. Her name was a perfect match, Hila, which means “aura.” Because she spread her love and compassion everywhere she went.
Gila Lookout has a beautiful playground and nice trails. Visitors can get a good look at the ancient road leading to the Holy Temple, the entrance to Jerusalem. You can also see the area around Mevaseret called Rehes Harrim (Flute Ridge) and Har Hamenuhot, Jerusalem’s largest cemetery. Above the cemetery, at the entrance to the city, stands a string bridge that constantly changes color.
Naftali Mountains and Liran Observatory
For some of Israel’s most impressive views, drive through Kiryat Shmona Forest, atop the Mount Naftali ridge. Look to your left and you’ll see a stunning view of the Golan Heights. Verdant slopes soar above the glittering Hula Valley below, and the glistening, snow-covered Mount Hermon peeks through the trees. The impressive slopes of the Naphtali Mountains lie on your right for most of the ride.
The 6-kilometer (3.7-mile) scenic route you travel was developed by KKL-JNF in the early 21st century. About half of the forest is covered with native terebinths, oak trees, and fiery yellow Spanish brooms. But these beautiful Japanese pines, drop-shaped trees with furry tops and long trunks, were planted by KKL-JNF.
One of the stops along the route is a viewing platform dedicated to the memory of Sergeant First Class Lilan Saadia. Born in Kiryat Shmona, he was a liaison officer in the army’s Egoz reconnaissance unit and was killed in action during the Second Lebanon War in July 2006. Enjoy the sights of the town where Saadia was born and raised, and follow the path that leads to the beautiful scenery. Check out a selection of his amazing sketches.
Kiryat Shmona was heavily damaged by Katyusha rockets during the Second Lebanon War (summer 2006). You can see the pine tree that was hit directly below and the rocket still stuck in the ground.
Tel Azekah Observation Deck
One observation deck that doesn’t yet have an audio guide is at Tell Azekah, in the area where David fought Goliath (1 Samuel 17:1). Those who visit this tell cannot find any signs or even such a path. Found in most of our national parks. That’s because excavations began in 2012, much later than other archaeological excavations in Israel. Oded Lipsitz, a professor of biblical history and archeology at Tel Aviv University, said the reason for the delay was what he called the legend of Tel Azekah.
Lipsitz said that when he first started his archeology career, students were told that digging up this special phone would be a waste of time. It seems that at the end of the 19th century, two British archaeologists were granted permission by the Turkish rulers to excavate four tells in the lowlands of the Land of Israel.
Their first attempt was Tell Azekah, occupied by the Canaanites from about 3,000 BC and then part of Judea, destroyed first by the Assyrians in 701 BC and then by the Babylonians in 586 BC. I did.
Of course, modern excavation methods had not yet been invented, and the two did not know the techniques to determine population levels, date pottery, or draw other conclusions about its history. They dug very deep tunnels around Tell and its acropolis and immediately set off for their next location.
Lipsitz has led the modern excavation, which has continued every summer for the past 12 years. Even before its launch, KKL-JNF had planted trees on the slopes of the tell, built a picnic area, and constructed an observation deck at the top of the tell (accessed by stone steps). Because Tel Azekah is located high above sea level in the Judean Lowlands, the observation deck offers beautiful views in all directions (though most views to the Mediterranean are obscured by trees).
Adventurous visitors can wander through the tell’s seven excavated areas. It offers a wealth of discoveries, including hidden caves from the Bar Kohba Revolt (132-135 AD) and finds dating back to the Early Bronze Age (3rd millennium BC). Time your visit to coincide with spring, when the wildflowers are in full bloom.
This article is adapted from a chapter from Aviva Bar-Am’s book. “Landscapes of Israel’s North: A Guide to the Golan Heights, Eastern Galilee, and Lake Kinneret” Special thanks to Masbiran Koli (Marla Van Meter and Avi Zeira) for using the audio guide material.