You can make the most convenient and definitely seasonal meals from just canned food.
Storing them in cans, jars, and even freezer bags is a way to extend the life and season of your favorite produce. For example, a few weeks ago I bottled apple butter and Meyer lemons and gave them away for the holidays. It was delicious, but I would have been so happy if my friend had spread this on toast and said it was like the essence of a crisp fall morning in an orchard.
This week’s recipe uses canned tomatoes. It’s like extending a dry, hot California summer into cooler, cloudy, rainy winter days.
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I like to use canned tomatoes, especially whole peeled tomatoes, to make thick, stew-like soups. The texture is closer to Van Gogh than a smooth puree like Rothko. Both are great styles of soup (and painting style), but I prefer to leave the blender in the cupboard to make soups that are richer and give you a better sense of what they’re made of. is common.
It’s a very simple soup. Start by sautéing the shallots, garlic, and various spices in butter. The end result is a bit of caramelization of the shallots, adding some sugary depth, and toasting the spices to add some heat and warmth.
Other works by Christian Reynoso
Whole tomatoes are obviously too large to make into soup on their own, so break them into small pieces with a blunt wooden spoon or masher. Besides eating, this is the most fun part of this recipe. Should I use canned crushed tomatoes? Because it’s simply not interesting. I also like to control the size of my tomatoes. Small variations are more interesting.
Add grated fresh horseradish to the top of the soup to create whipped cream that is flavorful rather than sweet. It’s like a cloudy prepared horseradish seasoning, lighter and more fanciful. I spread the cream on the toast I put on top of the soup, but if you prefer, you can leave out the toast and drizzle the cream directly onto the soup. As it melts, each spoonful adds a peppery spiciness, tempered by the cream and a nice contrast to the sweet and tangy soup. It’s like summer and winter in one bowl.
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To Christian Reynoso: food@sfchronicle.com
Spicy tomato soup with horseradish cream and toast
Like summer and winter, this soup makes you feel bright and sunny, but it’s also comforting and rich in flavor. It also comes together quickly without any mixing. A simple soup with an interesting combination of the spiciness of fresh wasabi and the flavor of fresh cream. Many markets have fresh horseradish, but if you can’t find it, try mixing in some horseradish prepared in a creamy style.
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3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large shallots (thinly sliced)
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon coarsely ground fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground coriander seeds
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1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes
freshly ground black pepper
1 can (28 ounces) whole, peeled tomatoes
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1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
3 inches of fresh horseradish, peeled
4 slices of thick-sliced toasted bread
Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. Once melted, add shallots, garlic, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, red chili flakes, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Cook the shallots and garlic, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon (preferably a blunt one), until very soft and light golden around the edges, but not browned. While stirring, use a spoon to pound the shallots and garlic to break them up into smaller pieces so they cook faster.
Add the tomatoes and stir, using a spoon (or masher) to break up the tomatoes into small chunks that will fit in a soup spoon. Add chicken stock, reduce heat to medium, and bring to a boil. Once it boils, turn off the heat, add the thyme and stir. Season with salt. Turn off the fire.
Meanwhile, while waiting for the soup to boil, pour the heavy cream into a bowl and whisk until soft peaks form. Finely grate the horseradish over the whipped cream, stirring until combined and season with salt. Let’s set it aside.
Pour the hot soup into a bowl, spread the cream on the toasted bread and place the toast on top of the soup.